Days 20 & 21: Kailua Beach & Hamama Falls

I decreed Monday a beach day, suited up, doused myself in sunscreen, and headed over to Kailua Beach. I walked up and down the beach for a while, searching in-between surfers and Japanese tourists, for a place to plop my towel and snorkeling bag down before settling on a high mound of white sand under a hibiscus tree. I spent the rest of the day watching kiteboarders, bobbing in the ocean, and digging my toes in the sand.

The following day I set off to find a hiking trail that Janine's neighbors had told her about. Hamama Falls is a large waterfall in the Kaneohe area. The trail is technically closed due to the fact that it is situated on the property the board of water supply property, however, Janine's neighbors assured her that locals and other hikers have been visiting this trail regularly with no problems. I drove 20 minutes to the end of a residential trail, got out quietly and walked quickly toward a gate with a "no trespassing" sign. A large hole had been cut in the fence next to the gate to allows eager hikers to pass through. The street in front of the entrance was lined by at least a dozen parked cars.

Still smiling after hiking 2 miles uphill

The trail started out deceptively calm on a relatively flat gravel road. I ventured off onto short dirt paths a few times and was surprised by discoveries like patches of wild orchids and abandoned machinery. About a third of the way up the trail I came to a clear, clean swimming hole with a rope swing and a man-made waterfall. There were a few swimmers and families gathered here playing in the cool water. I little bit further just over a bridge the trail took a sudden twist and the uphill battle began.

Wild orchid plants along the trail

At first I welcomed the challenge of the inclined slope, seeing it as a welcome stretch for my legs. What's a hike without a fair amount of exertion, right? Huffing, puffing, and creaking muscles were expected for the lack of hiking I'd done over the past few years. I slowly but steadily made my way uphill, controlling my breathing and enjoying the tropical sights and smells. About a mile later the trail turned even steeper and I was forced to turn my eyes from the foliage to my feet to make sure that with each step I was finding purchase on the gravely road and not in a slick of mud or under a root. At this point the bugs found their opportunity and attacked. I fended them off with deet and carried on. I was unaccompanied in my ascent in that I had no hiking partner and saw no other person on the way up. Those that passed me on their way down the slope assured me it was worth the trek and tried to control their descent by walking sideways, scattering gravel as they went. Children flew by me at neck-breaking paces, laughing shrilly as they went. I stopped at a humongous banyan tree and clipped my camera to some vines for a self-photo, then set off for the last leg of the upward hike.

Top of the trail looking up at the falls

The waterfall was unexpected. I turned a corner and suddenly there it was in all its massive splendor, crashing down the side of a mountain. With no one else around I kicked off my hiking shoes, stuck my toes in the cool water, and unpacked my lunch. For the next 30 minutes I munched happily alongside the falls, listening to the peaceful sound of the water cascading along the face of the mountain and trickling down to the base of the river, before beginning the descent.

The trek down was actually more challenging than the way up, mostly due to the steepness of the trail and the fact that it was covered in gravel. Like those hikers I'd seen on my way up, I side stepped down most of the trail and managed to only slip twice (wiping out once). While picking my way down I caught a beautiful panoramic view of the island straight down to the ocean. A mountain biker passed me on his way up, sweating fiercely and breathing loudly. The trail leveling out at the end was a welcome relief for my calves. After a quick dunk in the river near the start of the trail I walked back to Janine's car, happy with my first hike. Looking forward more glimpses of the natural beauty of O'ahu in the coming weeks.